The correct answer is Samual Adams, and you shoud really read the story it a good read.
A wider surf zone offer more protection from waves because the energy is dissipated over a longer distance.
As ocean surface waves approach shore, they get taller and break, forming the foamy, bubbly surface called surf. The region of breaking waves defines the surf zone, or breaker zone. After breaking in the surf zone, the waves (now reduced in height) continue to move in, and they run up onto the sloping front of the beach, forming an uprush of water called swash. The water then runs back again as backwash. The nearshore zone where wave water comes onto the beach is the surf zone. The water in the surf zone is shallow, usually between 5 and 10 m (16 and 33 ft) deep; this causes the waves to be unstable.
The surf zone can contain dangerous rip currents: strong local currents which flow offshore and pose a threat to swimmers. Rip-current outlooks use the following set of qualifications.
Learn more about surf zone here
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1.We have access to space to see it is round
2. We have 24 hour time zones. How could it be noon in one place and midnight in the other?
3.We are able to study lunar eclipses and see how they work (greeks discovered the earth is round with that method.).
4. Why do ships slowly sink into the distance? Exactly
5. Surveying other planets.
