Bigger pieces of sediment are usually deposited first then the little pieces then fill in the spaces between.
The answer is friction. As ocean wave approach the shoreline, they are affected by the sea bed through process such as refraction, shoaling, bottom friction and wave-breaking. However wave breaking also occurs in deep water when the waves re too steep. If the waves meet major structurer or abrupt changes in the coastline, they will be transformed by diffraction.
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