The answer is - wavelength.
As the wave approaches the shore and it reaches shallow waters it's characteristics start to change. When the wavelength is half of the water depth than the bottom of the wave starts to drag on the ocean floor. As it starts to do this the wave starts to slow down at it bottom as it approaches the beach but the upper part of the wave maintains its initial speed. Because of this the wave becomes longer. Once it reaches the shore it crashes on it and falls apart.
Naturalists of Steno’s day were becoming convinced that matter was composed of different combinations of tiny “corpuscles”—what today we would call molecules. Steno argued that the corpuscles in the teeth were replaced bit by bit, by corpuscles of minerals. In this gradual process, the teeth didn’t lose their overall shape as they turned from tissue to stone.
Answer:
maybe because of the tides from the moon or global warming?
Explanation:
it could be the tides because of the mooons gravitational force or it could be global warming and the ice melting makeing the water level higher i hope this helps in some way have a good day XD
