As a deep-water wave enters shallow water, the part of the wave in the shallowest water slows down. the deeper-water portion of
the wave crest keeps moving at a relatively rapid speed. this wave refraction causes the entire wave crest to progressively rotate toward being ________ with the shoreline.
To add, absolute water depth has nothing to do with the difference between shallow and deep-water waves. On the other hand, the ratio of the water’s deep to the wavelength of the wave is that one that determines it. A deep-water wave’s water molecules proceed in a circular orbit while the orbit of the molecules of shallow-water waves molecules’ orbit are elliptical.
As the waves are generated on the sea or the open water they create a swell zone and this zone occurs in the deep waters, as the waves move further there peak velocity occurs with the winds.
When they reach near the shorelines and thus they become transnational and these waves are carried forward to the breaker waves and these then merge with the shallow waves which are then flattened out on reaching the shores.
<u>Thus as they gradually slow down these waves form s a parallel or surf zones with the beach. As the shallower the waves the shallower is the flow of the water.</u>
Monsoon: <span>a seasonal prevailing wind in the region of South and Southeast Asia, blowing from the southwest between May and September and bringing rain (the </span>wet monsoon<span> ), or from the northeast between October and April (the </span>dry monsoon<span> ).
