Question

In your own words, explain how the frequency of an ocean wave determines the motion of a surfer on the wave?

Answer 1

Answer:

As the frequency increases the wavelength decreases

Explanation:

We have a basic equation in oscillation which says that frequencies and wavelength are inversely proportional to each other. As the frequency increases the wavelength decreases so when the frequency of the waves increases the height and depth of the waves changes hence the surfer will be more likely to fall. On the other hand if the frequency is low then the wavelength will be high therefore the surfer will ride smoothly.

Answer 2

Waves in a given area typically have a range of heights. For weather reporting and for scientific analysis of wind wave statistics, their characteristic height over a period of time is usually expressed as significant wave height. This figure represents an average height of the highest one-third of the waves in a given time period (usually chosen somewhere in the range from 20 minutes to twelve hours), or in a specific wave or storm system. HOPE IT HELPS