Answer:
A)
1. Reaction will shift rightwards towards the products.
2. It will turn green.
3. The solution will be cooler..
B) It will turn green.
Explanation:
Hello,
In this case, for the stated equilibrium:

In such a way, by thinking out the Le Chatelier's principle, we can answer to each question:
A)
1. If potassium bromide, which adds bromide ions, is added more reactant is being added to the solution, therefore, the reaction will shift rightwards towards the products.
2. The formation of the green complex is favored, therefore, it will turn green.
3. The solution will be cooler as heat is converted into "cold" in order to reestablish equilibrium.
B) In this case, as the heat is a reactant, if more heat is added, more products will be formed, which implies that it will turn green.
Regards.
Answer:
Product: ethyl L-valinate
Explanation:
If we want to understand what it is the molecule produced we have to an<u>alyze the reagents</u>. We have valine an <u>amino acid</u>, in this kind of compounds we have an <em>amine group</em> (
) and a <em>carboxylic acid</em> group (
). Additionally, we have an <u>alcohol </u>(
) in the presence of HCl (a <u>strong acid</u>) in the first step, and a base (
).
When we have an acid and an alcohol in a vessel we will have an <u>esterification reaction</u>. In other words, an ester is produced. As the <em>first step,</em> the oxygen in the C=O (in the carboxylic acid group) would be protonated. In the <em>second step</em>, the ethanol attacks the carbon in the C=O of the carboxylic acid group producing a new bond between the oxygen in the ethanol and the carbon in the carboxylic acid. In <em>step 3</em>, a proton is transferred to produce a better leaving group (
). In <em>step 4</em>, a water molecule leaves the main structure to produce again the double bond C=O. <em>Finally</em>, a base (
) removes the hydrogen from the C=O bond to produce ethyl L-valinate
See figure 1
I hope it helps!
Answer:
Carnivorous plants are easy to grow, if you follow a few, simple rules.
Wet all of the time.
Mineral-free water.
Mineral-free soil.
Lots of light.
Wet all of the time.
Carnivorous plants are native to bogs and similar nutrient-poor habitats. As a consequence, the plants live in conditions that are constantly damp. To grow healthy carnivorous plants, it is important to duplicate their habitat as closely as possible. Keep the soil wet or at least damp all of the time. The easiest way to do this is use the tray method. Set the pots in a tray or saucer, and keep water in it at all times. Pitcher plants can grow in soggy soil with the water level in the saucer as deep as 1/2 the pot, but most carnivorous plants prefer damp to wet soil, so keep the water at about 1/4 inch and refill as soon as it is nearly gone. Water from below, by adding water to the tray, rather than watering the plant. This will avoid washing away the sticky muscilage of the sundews and butterworts and keep from closing the flytraps with a false alarm.
Mineral-free water.
Always use mineral-free water with your carnivorous plants, such as rainwater or distilled water. Try keeping a bucket near the downspout to collect rainwater. Distilled water can be purchased at the grocery store, but avoid bottled drinking water. There are simply too many minerals in it. The condensation line from an air conditioner or heat pump is another source of mineral-free water. Reverse-osmosis water is fine to use. Carnivorous plants grow in nutrient poor soils. The minerals from tap water can “over-fertilize” and “burn out” the plants. In a pinch, tap water will work for a short while, but flush out the minerals with generous portions of rainwater, when it is available.
Mineral-free soil.
The nutrient poor soils to which the carnivorous plants have adapted are often rich in peat and sand. This can be duplicated with a soil mixture of sphagnum peat moss and horticultural sand. Be sure to check the peat label for sphagnum moss. Other types will not work well. The sand should be clean and washed. Play box sand is great, and so is horticultural sand. Avoid “contractor’s sand” which will contain fine dust, silt, clay and other minerals. Never use beach sand or limestone based sand. The salt content will harm the plants. The ratio of the mix is not critical, 1 part peat with 1 part sand works well for most carnivorous plants. Flytraps prefer a bit more sand, and nepenthes prefer much more peat. Use plastic pots, as terra cotta pots will leach out minerals over time and stress your plants.
Explanation:
Kayo na Po bahala magpaigsi
<u>U</u> <u>VORBELLO</u> <u>FRANÇAIS</u><u>?</u><u>?</u><u>?</u>