Answer:
- Direct current is a current in which electrons flow in one direction only
- Alternating current is a current in which the direction of the electron flow reverses periodically - so, half a cycle forward, half a cycle backward
There are several advantages of using alternating currents for the transmission of electricity across a country, over large distances. The main advantages are:
- The voltage of alternating currents can be easily increased/decreased by using transformers. For instance, a transformer is used at the beginning of the transmission line to increase the voltage (electricity is transmitted at high voltage in order to reduce dissipated power), and then another transformer is used before the electricity enters the houses, in order to decrease the voltage. Transformers only work with alternating currents.
- It is easy to interrupt the flow of an alternating current, because its value naturally becomes zero every half a cycle, so this is useful in case the current must be interrupted.
Answer:
A. the left half becomes neutral while the right half remains negatively charged
Explanation:
This is because wherever light strikes the photoconductor, it transforms from an insulator into a conductor. The charge will then migrate through it and leaves its surface. By exposing the left half of the photoconductor to light, you allow its local charge to leave and it becomes neutral.
Well, I'm not sure right now that it actually does.
But if it does, that's because the sun is about 400 times
FARTHER from the Earth than the moon is.
This is a very interesting problem ... mainly because it's different from
the usual questions in the Physics neighborhood.
I can discuss it with you, but maybe not quite give you a final answer
with the information you've given in the question.
I agree with all of your calculations so far ... the total energy required,
and the power implied if the lift has to happen in 5 seconds.
First of all, let's talk about power. I'm assuming that your battery is
a "car" battery, and I'm guessing you measured the battery voltage
while the car was running. Turn off the car, and you're likely to read
something more like 13 to 13.8 volts.
But that's not important right now. What I'm looking for is the CURRENT
that your application would require, and then to look around and see whether
a car battery would be capable of delivering it.
Power = (volts) x (current)
7,050 W = (14 volts) x (current)
Current = (7,050 watts / 14 volts) = 503 Amperes.
That kind of current knocks the wind out of me. I've never seen
that kind of number outside of a power distribution yard.
BUT ... I also know that the current demand from a car battery during
starting is enormous, so I'd better look around online and try to find out
what a car battery is actually capable of.
I picked a manufacturer's name that I'd heard of, then picked their
recommended battery for a monster 2003-model car, and looked at
the specs for the battery.
The spec I looked at was the 'CCA' ... cold cranking Amps.
That's the current the battery is guaranteed to deliver for 30 seconds,
at a temperature of 0°F, without dropping below 12 volts.
This battery that I saw is rated 803 Amps CCA !
OK. Let's back up a little bit. I'm pretty sure the battery you have
is a nominal "12-volt" battery. Let's say you use to start lifting the lift.
As the lift lifts, the battery voltage sags. What is the required current
if the battery immediately droops to 12V and stays there, while delivering
7,050 watts continuously ?
Power = (volts) x (current)
7,050 W = (12 V) x (current)
Current = (7,050 W / 12 V) = 588 Amps .
Amazingly, we may be in the ball park.
If the battery you have is rated by the manufacturer for 600 Amps
CCA (0°F) or CA (32°F), then the battery can deliver the current
you need.
BUT ... you can't conduct that kind of current through ear-bud wire,
or house wiring wire. I'm not even so sure of jumper-cables.
You need thick, no-nonsense cable, AND connections with a lot of
area ... No alligator clips. Shiny nuts and bolts with no crud on them.
Now ... I still want to check the matter of the total energy.
I'm sure you're OK, because the CCA and CA specifications talk about
30 seconds of cranking, and you're only talking about 5 seconds of lifting.
But I still want to see the total energy requirement compared to the typical
battery specification ... 'AH' ... ampere-hours.
You're talking about 35,000 joules
= 35,000 watt-seconds
= 35,000 volt-amp-seconds.
(35,000 volt-amp-sec) x (1 hour/3600 sec) / (12 volt)
= (35,000 x 1) / (3600 x 12) volt-amp-sec-hour / sec-volt
= 0.81 Amp-Hour .
That's an absurdly small depletion from your car battery.
But just because it's only 810 mAh, don't get the idea that you can
do it with a few rechargeable AA batteries out of your camera.
You still need those 600 cranking amps. That would be a dead short
for a stack of camera batteries, and they would shrivel up and die.
Have I helped you at all ?
