Question

A wave will "break" because ________. a wave will "break" because ________. the sediment load of water is greater near the shore of random molecular motion in wave forms the density of water increases closer to shore the bottom interferes with its oscillatory motion the wind increases its speed near shorelines

Answer 1

A wave will "break" because the bottom interferes with its oscillatory motion. Breaking of waves may occur anywhere that the amplitude is sufficient, including in mid-ocean. When waves enter shallow water they break because the motion of water in lower part of the wave nearest the bottom is slowed by friction so that their oscillation is faster than its supporting portion at the bottom. Thus, the wave collapses forward and breaks.