When deep-water waves move into shallow water, they change into breaking waves. When the energy of the waves touches the ocean floor, the water particles drag along the bottom and flatten their orbit (Fig. 4.18 B). Transitional waves occur when the water depth is less than one-half the wavelength (D < 1/2 L).
When deep-water waves move into shallow water, they change into breaking waves. When the energy of the waves touches the ocean floor, the water particles drag along the bottom and flatten their orbit . Transitional waves occur when the water depth is less than one-half the wavelength.
